Mt. Qilai Main/North Peaks D2 Waypoint
2 Aug 2026 22 waypoints 26 photos 12.89 km
D2 Itinerary
If you didn't push through to the Qilai Ridge Campground or cabin on day one, and instead set out from Chenggong Cabin to tag the Main Peak and North Peak before returning to Chenggong, budget around 12 hours round trip including breaks. Since Qilai often gets afternoon thunderstorms, starting in the dark isn't a bad idea — for an average pace, I'd suggest setting out no later than 3:00 am. Also, since both Chenggong Cabin and Qilai Cabin have running water, even though today's route is almost entirely exposed with no cover, you can refill at Qilai Cabin — so for hikers with average water needs, hiking this section in summer, about 2 liters of water 'for each peak' is plenty.
After leaving Chenggong Cabin, the first roughly 300 meters is a gentle climb along a riverbed, then it's roped and steep the whole way up to the Three-way Junction. Climbing this blindly in the pre-dawn dark doesn't feel like much — you've just gotten up and your body is a bit stiff from the cold morning start, that's all. On the way back, though, the same section is a relentless steep descent, and once you can actually see how far down it goes, it gets a lot more exciting. Waypoint 12 along the way is the old route to Qilai North Peak, which is now closed — keep going straight! My hiking companions and I took about 2 hours to get from Chenggong Cabin to the Three-way Junction.
After the Three-way Junction, we decided to take a short break at Qilai Cabin first, refill water, and use the restroom. Since it wasn't light out yet when we got there, we saw quite a few sika deer looking eagerly for food. Since Qilai Cabin has a restroom right there, and Qilai Ridge Campground is nearby too, please don't relieve yourself out in the open.
There are pros and cons to climbing Main Peak or North Peak first. Here's how I thought about it: Qilai Cabin is already on the way to Main Peak, so you've covered part of the distance. Also, while the Main Peak route is longer than North Peak's, it wins out with a relatively gentle climb and only a short roped section. Since it wasn't light yet, and considering safety plus not being fully warmed up, tackling Main Peak first made more sense — and the return from Main Peak is a gentle downhill, which doubles as an easy way to flush out lactic acid.
But! The Qilai North Peak ridge (the cliff section) is the main source of 'Black Qilai's' infamous reputation — this stretch of ridge is especially prone to fog rolling in during the afternoon, with visibility dropping to zero in an instant. On Taiwan's high mountains, cloud and fog building up in the afternoon is the norm; visibility is best before noon, and the risk only grows later in the day. Since my hiking companions had a good pace, we judged we could still reach North Peak before noon, so we stuck with the decision to tackle Main Peak first. I'm sharing both sides here for anyone reading this record to weigh for themselves.
Qilai Main Peak
On the stretch from Qilai Cabin toward Main Peak, the wind picks up along the ridge, and since I watched the sunrise up on the ridge, make sure to protect your head from the wind. Before Waypoint 21, you walk through a broad meadow, climbing gently as the sky slowly lightens, and your body gets more energy as the sunlight comes in. After Waypoint 21 there are more roped sections, though not very difficult — handle them carefully and you'll reach Qilai Main Peak without trouble.
Qilai North Peak
The way back from Main Peak to Qilai Cabin is a gentle descent the whole way; after resting up at the cabin, we set out for Qilai North Peak at around 09:00. This route is relatively steeper than Main Peak's, especially from Waypoint 28 onward, where it's either a steep climb or a steep roped climb. Since several of the anchor posts for the ropes on Qilai North Peak are no longer secure, some even loose, you have to stay focused and careful through this section. We reached the Qilai North Peak triangulation point at around 10:30.
On the way back, Waypoint 31 looks like it might lead back to Chenggong Cabin (connecting to Waypoint 12 mentioned earlier), but there are timber barriers on the ground clearly marking it as closed — please follow the rules to avoid danger. Go back the way you came, through the Three-way Junction, to Chenggong Cabin!
Trail Log
10 Recording resumed
3,604 m2,870↓56 min 580 m ↑205 m
11 Rest Platform
3,604 m2,870↓11 min 200 m ↑89 m
12 Old route closed — go rightMentioned in text
3,604 m2,870↓48 min 620 m ↑200 m ↓12 m
13 Head to the ridge cabin first for a long break and restroom
3,604 m2,870↓3 min 100 m
14 Qilai Ridge Campground
3,604 m2,870↓5 min 100 m ↓13 m
15 Qilai Cabin — water available
3,604 m2,870↓10 min 0 m
16 Recording resumed
3,604 m2,870↓6 min 80 m
17 Qilai Cabin
3,604 m2,870↓6 min 240 m ↓17 m
18 Campground
3,604 m2,870↓17 min 620 m ↑75 m
19 Watching the sunrise
3,604 m2,870↓16 min 160 m
20 Viewpoint
3,604 m2,870↓52 min 1.96 km ↑53 m ↓46 m
21 Turn left and climb toward the Main PeakMentioned in text
3,604 m2,870↓28 min 320 m ↑159 m
22 Qilai Main Peak Triangulation Point
3,604 m2,870↓2 min 0 m
23 Lin Cuiwei Memorial (mountaineering accident)
3,604 m2,870↓21 min 0 m
24 Recording resumed
3,604 m2,870↓2 h 9 min 3.91 km ↑176 m ↓302 m
25 Wangtian Pond
3,604 m2,870↓5 min 230 m
26 Turn right for Qilai North Peak
3,604 m2,870↓6 min 180 m ↑13 m
27 Viewpoint
3,604 m2,870↓11 min 330 m ↓12 m
28 Steep climb along the ridgeMentioned in text
3,604 m2,870↓47 min 390 m ↑162 m
29 Qilai North Peak Triangulation Point
3,604 m2,870↓2 h 0 min 890 m ↓158 m
31 Closed — don't return to Chenggong Cabin this wayMentioned in text
3,604 m2,870↓1 h 40 min 1.96 km ↑11 m ↓575 m
32 Back at the cabin
3,604 m2,870
Start of record02:34 2879 m 0 km Chenggong Cabin
↓20 m
End of record14:13 2879 m 12.89 km Chenggong Cabin
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