Segment times are from my own track — my pace, not advice; guidebook times are transcribed verbatim from Sunriver Culture's step-time charts (Gaoshan Baiyue topographic maps), a public yardstick. Every station's position and name was checked by hand and aligned with Sunriver's naming, so names and elevations match what hikers actually call them. Route is for reference only.This route wasn't planned — it's a GPS-recorded log of my own hike in August 2026: Qilai Main and North Peaks, three days, two Baiyue peaks, 22.4km actual distance, 1989m total elevation gain. A few things to note:
- Both Chenggong Cabin and Qilai Cabin have running water — bring a filter, and it takes a lot of the water-carrying burden off.
- This time I stayed the night at the Chenggong Cabin campsite. Given how steep and rope-heavy the stretch up to the Three-way Junction is, if you have the stamina, I'd suggest pushing straight through on day one to the campsite at Waypoint 14, Qilai Ridge Campground, or Waypoint 17, Qilai Cabin. This new hut has beautiful scenery, sika deer for company, and a broad meadow — it would definitely be a comfortable stay.
- This section has a great many roped sections — sturdy, non-slip gloves are essential! And when gripping the ropes, remember: solid footing is what matters most, the rope is only a backup, not your main support; check that the anchor point is secure before you commit to pulling on it. Several of the anchor posts for the ropes on Qilai North Peak are no longer secure, some even loose — please follow the two rules above before relying on any rope!
- From Xiao Qilai to before Heishuitang Hut, the view is wide open with no cover; from the trailhead, it takes less than a minute to climb up to Xiao Qilai at 1.4K, so it's well worth a quick photo stop on the way.
- There are big stone tables and benches in front of Chenggong Cabin for resting and chatting, running water available anytime nearby, and a restroom not far off — even if you're not staying here, it's worth pausing to enjoy the mountain forest.
- Qilai often gets afternoon thunderstorms, so for an average pace I'd suggest setting out before 3:00 am. Both Chenggong Cabin and Qilai Cabin have running water, so in summer 2 liters of water per peak is plenty.
- There's an old route toward Qilai North Peak along the way that's now closed off — be sure to keep going straight through. There's also a blocked-off section on the way back from North Peak marked with timber barriers; always return the same way through the Three-way Junction to Chenggong Cabin, and don't take what looks like a passable shortcut.
- The Qilai North Peak ridge (the cliff section) is the main source of 'Black Qilai's' infamous reputation — fog rolls in easily in the afternoon and visibility can drop to zero in an instant. Taiwan's high mountains have the best visibility before noon, and the risk only grows later in the day, so plan to cross this section before noon if at all possible.
- Several of the anchor posts for the ropes on Qilai North Peak are loose and no longer secure — stay focused and careful crossing this section.
- Even though there's a restroom near Qilai Cabin, it's still a popular campsite — please don't relieve yourself out in the open.
- This GPX keeps the original timestamps — that's the record of my own pace, not a suggested pace; hikers should judge by their own condition and the weather. Every track point has a timestamp.
The switch point between full pack and summit pack is at Chenggong Cabin. Actual conditions on the ground take priority over this record.
